Bijelo Polje: Where Crna Gora's North Reveals Its Many Layers
Bijelo Polje (White Field) is a city of approximately 15,000 people in northern Crna Gora, straddling the emerald Lim River in a broad valley framed by forested hills. As one of Crna Gora's largest northern cities, Bijelo Polje serves as a regional centre for the upper Lim valley and a cultural crossroads where crnogorski, Serbian, and Bosniak communities have coexisted for centuries. The city's name refers to the broad, flat field where the town sits — a rare expanse of level ground in mountainous northern Crna Gora — which in certain light, especially when covered in morning mist or winter snow, does appear strikingly white.
While Bijelo Polje rarely appears on tourist itineraries, it rewards the curious traveller with a genuine glimpse of northern crnogorski life: Ottoman-era mosques standing alongside Orthodox churches, vibrant daily markets, excellent river fishing, and the deep quiet of surrounding mountain villages largely unchanged since the 19th century. For visitors driving between the coast and Serbia, or those seeking a base for exploring Bjelasica, Biogradska Gora, and the monasteries of northern Crna Gora, Bijelo Polje is an authentic and hospitable stopping point.
A Brief History of Bijelo Polje
The Bijelo Polje area has been inhabited since prehistoric times, but the settlement gained historical significance in the medieval period. The region was part of the Serbian medieval state of Raška, and later the Nemanjić dynasty's expanded realm. The oldest monument in the area is the Church of St. Peter on the Lim (Crkva Svetog Petra na Limu), also known as Nikoljac, dating from the 12th century. This small stone church, located on the outskirts of the city, is one of the oldest surviving Orthodox churches in Crna Gora.
The osmansko osvajanje in the 15th century brought profound changes. Bijelo Polje became an administrative centre under osmanske vladavine, and a significant Muslim population established itself alongside the existing Christian community. Mosques, hamams, and bazaars were built, giving the town centre an unmistakable Ottoman character that partially survives today. The Redzepagic Tower and several mosques from this period remain standing.
Crna Gora gained control of Bijelo Polje following the Balkanskih ratova of 1912–1913, and the town was incorporated into the new Yugoslav state. During Drugog svjetskog rata, the area saw intense partisan activity and suffered significant destruction. The post-war Yugoslav era brought industrialization — factories, housing blocks, and modern infrastructure transformed the town, though the old quarter retained much of its character.
Since crnogorski independence in 2006, Bijelo Polje has navigated the challenges of a post-industrial economy while preserving its multicultural identity. The city's Orthodox, Muslim, and Catholic communities continue to celebrate their distinct traditions, making it one of the most genuinely diverse cities in Crna Gora.
How to Get to Bijelo Polje
Iz Podgorice: The drive takes about 2 hours (approximately 120 kilometres) via the E65 highway, which follows the Morača Canyon north through some of Crna Gora's most dramatic scenery. The road passes through the canyon's deep gorges, over the Mrtvica River bridge, and through several tunnels before reaching the Lim valley.
By train: Bijelo Polje is on the Belgrade–Bar railway line, with its own station served by several trains daily. The journey from Podgorica takes about 2.5 hours and traverses some of the most spectacular railway scenery in Europe, including the Mala Rijeka viaduct — at 198 metres, one of the highest railway bridges in the world. Trains from Bar on the coast take about 4 hours.
From Serbia: Bijelo Polje is only about 40 kilometres from the Serbian border at Dobrakovo. The road from Prijepolje in Serbia is in good condition and the crossing is typically straightforward.
By bus: Regular bus services connect Bijelo Polje to Podgorica (2–2.5 hours), Nikšić, Pljevlja, and destinations in Serbia. The bus station is centrally located.
Najbolje vrijeme za posjetu
Bijelo Polje has a continental climate significantly different from the crnogorski coast. Summers (June to August) are warm, with temperatures reaching 28–33°C, but drier and less humid than the lowlands. This is the best time for river activities, hiking, and enjoying the green valleys. Spring (April to May) brings wildflowers and pleasant temperatures. Autumn (September to October) offers beautiful foliage along the Lim valley and the surrounding forests.
Winters are cold, with temperatures frequently dropping below -5°C and regular snowfall from December to March. The surrounding mountains receive heavy snow, and the landscape takes on an Alpine beauty. For those combining Bijelo Polje with skiing at Kolašin or Bjelasica, winter visits have their own appeal.
Šta vidjeti i raditi
Church of St. Peter on the Lim (Nikoljac Monastery)
This small stone church on the banks of the Lim, about 3 kilometres from the city centre, dates from the 12th century and is one of Crna Gora's oldest surviving Orthodox churches. Its simple Romanesque architecture, with thick stone walls and narrow windows, reflects the austere spirituality of the medieval Serbian church. Inside, fragments of original frescoes are still visible. The churchyard is peaceful and shaded, overlooking the river. The monastery complex that grew around the church includes later buildings and a small garden. Entry is free, though modest dress is expected.
The Stari grad and Ottoman Heritage
Bijelo Polje's stari grad centre retains several structures from the osmanski period, including mosques, the old bazaar area, and residential towers. The most prominent mosque is the Husein-Paša Boljanić Mosque, a graceful structure with a slender minaret. The Redzepagić Tower (Kula Redžepagića), a fortified stone tower house typical of Ottoman-era Balkan architecture, is one of the best-preserved examples in Crna Gora. Walking through the old quarter, you encounter a layered architectural history — Ottoman stone walls next to austrougarski facades next to Yugoslav-era apartment blocks.
The Lim River and Fishing
The Lim River is the lifeblood of Bijelo Polje, a clear, fast-flowing river renowned for its trout and grayling fishing. The stretch of the Lim through the Bijelo Polje valley is considered one of the best fly-fishing waters in Crna Gora. Local fishing associations manage the river and issue permits (available from the Bijelo Polje tourist office or fishing shops). Beyond fishing, the riverside offers pleasant walking paths and picnic areas. In summer, locals swim in the calmer pools, and riverside restaurants serve grilled fish caught that morning.
Bjelasica Mountain and Biogradska Gora
The Bjelasica mountain range rises south of Bijelo Polje, offering hiking, mountain biking, and in winter, skiing at the Kolašin 1600 resort. The jewel of Bjelasica is Biogradska Gora Nacionalni park, about 40 kilometres from Bijelo Polje (roughly 45 minutes by car). This park protects one of the last virgin rainforests in Europe — ancient beech, maple, and elm trees rising to 45 metres — and the pristine glacial Lake Biograd. A walking trail circles the lake in about 45 minutes, while longer trails penetrate the primeval forest and climb to mountain peaks above 2,000 metres.
Ostrog Monastery
While technically closer to Nikšić, the famous Ostrog Monastery is accessible from Bijelo Polje as a day trip (about 90 minutes by car). Built into the sheer face of a cliff at 900 metres altitude, Ostrog is the most visited pilgrimage site in Crna Gora and one of the most remarkable religious structures in the Balkans. The monastery was founded in the 17th century by Vasilije Ostroški (later Saint Basil of Ostrog), and his relics are kept in the upper monastery. The sight of the whitewashed monastery seemingly embedded in the rock face is unforgettable.
Lim Valley Scenic Drive
The road along the Lim valley, both north toward Serbia and south toward Berane, offers one of Crna Gora's finest scenic drives. The valley narrows in places to dramatic gorges, then opens to broad meadows with scattered villages. The road south toward Berane passes through the picturesque town of Mojkovac and offers access to the Sinjajevina plateau, one of the largest mountain pastures in Europe.
Zaton Monastery
Located about 5 kilometres from the city centre, Zaton Monastery is a 14th-century foundation set in a quiet valley. The monastery church contains fragments of medieval frescoes and is surrounded by a peaceful garden. It is less visited than major crnogorski monasteries, offering a contemplative experience without crowds.
Bijelo Polje Market
The city's daily market (pijaca) is one of the most vibrant in northern Crna Gora. Farmers from surrounding villages sell seasonal produce — berries, wild mushrooms, honey, cheese, kajmak, and herbs. On larger market days, the stalls spill into surrounding streets. This is a wonderful place to experience the rhythms of northern crnogorski life and to stock up on local products.
Đe odsjesti
Bijelo Polje has a modest selection of accommodation suited to its status as a regional city rather than a tourist destination:
- Hotel Bijelo Polje: The main hotel in the city centre, offering comfortable rooms at reasonable rates (40–70 euros).
- Hotel Lim: A riverside option with views over the Lim valley.
- Private apartments: Several listings on booking platforms offer self-catering accommodation in the city, typically 20–40 euros po noćenju.
- Rural guesthouses: In the surrounding villages, a growing number of rural tourism properties offer authentic mountain hospitality, fresh food, and proximity to hiking trails.
Đe jesti
Bijelo Polje's cuisine reflects its multicultural character and mountain setting. Key dishes and dining experiences include:
- River trout: Grilled, fried, or baked, Lim River trout is a local pride. Several riverside restaurants (ćevabdžinice and kafane) serve fresh fish.
- Ćevapi and pljeskavice: Reflecting the Bosniak culinary tradition, Bijelo Polje produces excellent grilled minced meat dishes served in fresh somun bread.
- Burek and pita: Flaky pastry filled with meat, cheese, or spinach — a staple of Balkan bakeries, done exceptionally well in Bijelo Polje's pekare (bakeries).
- Kajmak: A rich, thick dairy product similar to clotted cream, served with everything from bread to grilled meats.
- Lamb and veal under sač: Slow-roasted under a metal bell covered with coals — order in advance at traditional restaurants.
Restaurant Sofra is well-regarded for traditional Balkan cuisine. Kafana Stari Grad in the stari grad serves grilled meats and river fish. For quick, excellent ćevapi, look for the small grills near the market. A full meal typically costs 7–15 euros po osobi — Bijelo Polje is significantly more affordable than the coast.
Praktični savjeti
- Language: crnogorski/Serbian is the local language. English is less widely spoken than on the coast, but younger residents and hotel staff generally communicate well. A few basic Serbian phrases are appreciated.
- Currency: Crna Gora uses the euro. ATMs are available in the city centre. Credit cards are accepted at hotels and larger restaurants but not always at smaller establishments or market stalls.
- Driving: The Morača Canyon road from Podgorica is well-maintained but demanding — narrow in places, with tunnels and heavy truck traffic. Drive carefully, especially in winter when ice is possible.
- Multiculturalism: Bijelo Polje is proudly multicultural. Respect for all communities' traditions — both Orthodox and Islamic — is important and appreciated.
- Kupovina: The daily market is the best place to buy local products. Look for mountain honey, dried herbs, kajmak, and sheep's cheese.
Day Trip Suggestions
- Biogradska Gora Nacionalni park: The virgin forest and Lake Biograd are about 45 minutes south — a full day can include hiking, the lake circuit, and a picnic.
- Mojkovac and the Sinjajevina Plateau: South of Bijelo Polje, the quiet town of Mojkovac gives access to the vast Sinjajevina grasslands, popular for hiking, horseback riding, and wild camping.
- Ostrog Monastery: A pilgrimage to the cliff-face monastery (90 minutes by car) is one of Crna Gora's most powerful spiritual experiences.
- Berane and Đurđevi Stupovi Monastery: The city of Berane (30 minutes south) is home to the medieval Đurđevi Stupovi (Pillars of St. George) monastery, with important 13th-century frescoes.
- Pljevlja: About an hour northwest, this northern town features the stunning Husein-Paša Mosque (one of the finest Ottoman buildings in the Balkans) and access to Tara Canyon from the north.
.webp&w=2048&q=75)